I arrived back in Rwanda on Monday and there has been relatively little notable events in the country over that week—or so I thought. While Rwanda is often praised as one of the most secure Africa countries, we are surrounded by wars and instability. The DRC to the West is in civil war that constantly threatens the borders of Rwanda, Burundi is recently out of a 20 year war and the American Embassy evacuated all personnel last week, Kenya recently had election mayhem and Uganda is soon to come whenever Museveni is up for re-election again.

One night after I had returned home, I settled in by the radio to listen to the BBC World News in English and was stunned to hear that 18 military leaders had been sentenced for treason. What was their crime you may ask? These men attempted a coup d’etat bringing in grenades and guns from the DRC, but they were unsuccessful.

I wondered why no one here had heard anything about this so I went to town the next day and bought a paper where there was no mention of the coup attempt. I wonder how much of our peace and stability is an illusion or if the Rwandan government is suppressing this story because of the possible negative repercussions from the international community’s investment in Rwanda. However, for a democratic society that is lauded in the press around the world, this suppression of the story as well as the completely one-sided elections give me cause to consider the merits of having a military leader—democratically elected or not.

Other interesting things:

Gas Is 9+ dollars in the village for a gallon and 5 dollars in town. So much for 40 dollars a barrel huh?

The U20 World Cup Qualifier is here and I am going to see Mali and Rwanda play today

Our Houseboy Jimmy is going to school

Poverty has no Future

 

No! This rant is not going to be an optimistic panegyric about the hopeful expectation of eradicating, eliminating, obliterating (or any other dramatic, euphonious word) poverty. Rather, this may turn out to be a castigation of the structures that enhance poverty as well as a reproach to those who intensify poverty’s effects—the poor.

Yes, the poor. Of course it is not popular to criticize the poor; but, many of the problems that affect them are initiated by their own poor (get it?) choices. I am hesitant to lay full blame on the poor for their situation, but I also believe that it is more humanizing to give them credit for their situation rather than treating them as if they were mere victims of circumstance. The structures that purport to further development have, without a doubt, advanced the misguided priorities of many of the poor; however, ultimately the poor must decide for themselves.

Before I go much further I should define what I mean by poor. In Africa we have those who live on less than $1 dollar a day and their immense poverty forces them into a battle for survival. However, there is another class of poor who make around $5-10 dollars a day ($1,826-$3,653) and are able to make decisions about their future. When I refer to the poor, I am referring to the latter category.

Materialism is rampant amongst the poor. Of course, you wouldn’t think that someone who is making $10 per day would have many options, but then again, you would be wrong. Living in the heart of Africa with an archetypal African has given me a lot perspective which is hard to gain from reading the bleeding heart stories that come out of the NGO’s and Multi-National aid efforts.

Celestine is a typical “middle-class” African—poor. He works at the hospital as a nurse, rents a comfortable house and is soon to be engaged and married (Apparently that happens in tandem here). The last month of living with him has led me to understand that the poor can be materialistic in many of the same ways as we are in the West. Example: Celestine has told me repeatedly that it is imperative for him to buy a radio before he gets married. This seems like a rather simple item to purchase until you understand that he wants to buy a stereo system that costs around $600. Keep in mind that he makes around $3,500 per year, thus this purchase would be approximately 17% of his annual income. He has implored me on numerous occasions to bring him a radio from the USA when I come back from Christmas (ok, flying home for Christmas is about 60% of his annual salary).

We live in a house that is a lot nicer than most of the people around us. Celestine uses approximately 50% of his monthly salary to rent this house that is too big for him, but is impressive to his many friends who come to visit us. Of course this has lead to his impotence to save any money or to plan for the future. Due to the exorbitant expenditures that are expected of a groom, he feels the pressure to spend approximately $5,000- $7,000 dollars for his wedding. So do you take a loan for your wedding? YES!!! (This rings true with my own experience of American weddings).

Materialism is something that has been infused in our psyche and it may be something that we inherit at birth whether we want it or not. Celestine lives each day without any savings and he spends generously on his friends as he has money. This is one part of the African materialism that I think we would do well to learn from—being generous and valuing relationships, but I will save that for another rant. He will expend all of his energy and resources for a television, radio, or even his wedding, but will have a hard time buying food for his new wife. The image of success is much more important than reality.

When I say poverty has no future, I mean exactly that. The poor who have an infusion of materialism refuse to think about the future because the most important thing is to look good today. Granted, I think the provision of aid and other mechanisms have contributed to this mindset as well as the short life expectancy which has potential to reinforce a tendency to live from “paycheck to paycheck.” However, the majority of the responsibility for these decisions falls squarely on those who make them—the poor.

Like Chuck Paluhnik and later Brad Pitt in the guise of Tyler Durden who was really the imagination of Ed Norton’s character said, “We work jobs we hate to buy shit we don’t need.”

Sounds a lot like us huh?

So thinking I was a magnanimous guy who wants to identify with the people, I decided to move to Africa and try to live as cheaply as possible. In fact when many Westerners learn that I dont have a toilet, kitcken and eat beans and rice for most meals they are generally appalled. However, this only boosted my supercilious demeanor and encouraged me to continue. According to Western standards, 10 dollars a day translates into $3,560 per year. This would be considered far below the poverty line in the USA and in fact an average American probably makes about 10X this amount, 35,600 per year.

I always knew the statistic that a billion people live on less than a dollar a day. The boy who cleans our house makes 15 dollars a month, but he has a free place to live and food. His is considered a good deal. I have always considered myself as a person who could adapt to any situation, however, I cant ever imagine living on a dollar a day. My self-proclaimed live of poverty is still 10X what most people in Rwanda live on every day. I am living 10X better than the average person here and the average American is living 100X better than 1 billion of the world’s poor.

The answer is not .7% of GDP or free trade although those things will help. The poor are essentially lost and going to stay that way until they die. The only chance is their children. This sounds so bad, but I think it is the truth. Anyway, if you want to do something to help invest in the kids…

When I was in the US, I always enjoyed running off road on the Charles River Trail or other various places around Waltham. I figured it would be the same here. Since most of the roads are dirt roads, I thought it would be better on my knees and a pleasant experience. I just got back from a three mile run (I think) which was harder than any run I have done in the States. I think I ate a gallon of dust during my run and I was really ready for water when I got back. I was also ready for a shower, which unfortunately, the water is not running today. However, one of the guards obligingly got me a bucket of cold water, which felt great, so I could take a shower. I have no idea where he got that water…

The next few hours of my afternoon were taken up by scrubbing my dirty clothes which have been piling up for two weeks. I really appreciate washing machines. The people here are supposed to clean my clothes, but I came home yesterday to one shirt on my bed that had been cleaned and the rest of the clothes were still sitting in a pile on the floor. Since I am moving out of the school on Sunday, I needed to clean my clothes….

Starting on Sunday we are going to be headed to the west of Rwanda to Nyamasheke and Rusizi which border the DRC and Burundi. We will be staying there all week and then I am going to go to Bukavu to visit Tshali Kabanga’s parents for the weekend before going to the next work site in the west of Rwanda the following Monday. The school wont let me keep my things in my room so I am packing to put them in an office here and I will just sleep at the school on weekends until we finish the research.

Our research is going well and we are collecting really interesting and important data. I am really enjoying my time in the field. I finally took some pictures which I have posted here. I am always conflicted as to how to capture the people, especially when so many that I see are sick. Walking into a hospital and snapping pictures doesnt seem like the right thing to do. So most of my pictures are people doing their daily activities– biking, walking, etc…

Below are a few pictures, but they take a long time to upload, so sorry there are so few.

I will be out of connection for the next two weeks so hopefully more pictures and stories coming in a few weeks.

I am not sure if you can see the details of this map, but if you look carefully you can see blue and pink highlighting. If you can see those marks, you will be able to tell where all of the health centers are that we will visit in the next months (Note: if you click on the map you can see an enlarged version).

The last week has consisted of me eating a lot of bananas, apples and peanut butter along with a steady diet of rice and kidneys for dinner. They really like the kidney meat here becasue it is very tender. It is the equivalent of our filet-mignon. So the food here is pretty similar to what you would expect in a developing country– a lot of rice, potato, beans, etc…

I went for an interview today with the Millenium village Project and have been offered an unpaid opportunity to work for them ;) Yeah, the life of being an intern with little experience means I have to beg someone to let me work for them for free. I would be an assistant to a guy who oversees 11 health centers for the MVP in one of the poorest districts in Rwanda. I think it would be an interesting opportunity. It would be good-bye to Kigali and embracing the village life. However, this wouldn’t start until September because I am still working on this Brandeis project.

I walked for a while today and chatted with a Congolese student. He said they had to leave Congo because of the safety issues. There seem to be a lot of those stories here.

We should start collecting data and roaming the country on Monday, however that is pending the approval of the Ministry of Health. I guess they sent back a letter today becasue of the bad grammar…

In closing… J’espere que je peux parler le francis tres bien, mais Je croix que il va etre longtemps pour moi